Expected final horsepower:60 to 65 wheel horsepower and possible about 130 ft-lbs of additional torque!2- You have a car that has an accessible fuel pressure regulator, or an ECU that can be re-flashed for nitrous oxide or a 'dual tune' setup.Injection location:After the supercharger, after the intercooler, and into the intake manifold of the car. Avoid spraying on these temperature sensitive sensors to prevent accidental timing advance from occurring.25 bar (or 18psi of boost) which is more than the 'expected' 14psi that is the sum of the two boost levels.Maximum recommended injection:25% of the original total power figure which corresponds to around a 50 hp shot of nitrous..Second: Dry nitrous injection contains no fuel, and so we don't need to worry about fuel falling out of suspension from the injected air.5 psi in your intake may or may not be compensated by your stock ECU and so depending on how well the ECU reacts you will have to adjust the fuel jetting on the nitrous kit.
This means that additional timing retard, great octane fuel, and possibly colder spark plugs will be required to run spray on a supercharged car.com/2542586. Typically racers find that their cars vary in their quarter mile performance by as much as a half a second between their summer tune and their winter tune, especially if you're using a supercharger or turbocharger that compresses (and further heats) the incoming air. As we mentioned in our articles on twin charging (combining turbochargers with superchargers for added performance), when two 'chargers' are chained in series where one charger feeds the next, then the two pressure ratios of the charger combine because the second charger compresses air that is already compressed by the first. Last but not least, if you're running a 500hp supercharged car with an additional 120hp of nitrous oxide injection, then you must make sure that your fuel delivery (fuel pump and fuel lines) are able to flow the total amount of fuel required to deliver 620hp.
Maximum recommended injection:25% of the original total power figure which corresponds to around a 50 hp shot of nitrous. While in the winter, the outside temperatures drop significantly, the nitrous in the bottle contracts and the bottle pressure drops, subsequently, the nitrous flow rate drops and nitrous assisted cars show worse performance in the winter times.Pre-cautions:Now we have to consider that nitrous oxide is an oxidizer and thus not only does it increase the amount of air and fuel combusting in the cylinder, but it also produces a faster moving flame front due to the oxidizer properties of the nitrous oxide. For example an extra 2.5 pressure ratio (or 7 psi of boost), running in sequential mode will result in a final pressure ratio of 2.Maximum recommended injection:25% of the original total power figure which corresponds to around a 50 hp shot of nitrous on our example.Recommended kit:A dry nitrous injection kit that injects only nitrous oxide from the injection nozzle. ECU on the car is a Siemens ECU that very few people know how to tune, and the fuel system uses a return-less setup with an in-tank fuel pressure regulator..Similarly, injecting nitrous oxide before the supercharger, delivers already compressed air.
This means that the 'out of the box' jetting of a nitrous kit may not be adequate on a supercharged car and you'd have to make sure to monitor and possibly increase the fuel jetting to match the final horsepower figure of your car).Applications scenarios:1- You have a car like mine, a 2005 C230 kompressor that comes with a 230hp limited Eaton MP45..5 to 2. Spraying nitrous BEFORE the intercooler, right after the supercharger gives the nitrous stream more time and more contact with the compressed air coming out of the supercharger which results in more cooling and further increased horsepower. The final amount of compression observed by the supercharger inlet will vary depending on the ratio of incoming air to the size of the nitrous shot, and can result in an increase in boost of between 0..The complete opposite is true for supercharged cars that produce great horsepower in the winter from compressing cool dense air, and poor horsepower in the summer heat.